WHEN REVIEWING a new restaurant, I always pledge to leave the place ready to offer an objective view of the experience I had there.
But you still often can't help but walk in the first time without at least some preconceived notions about what you're going to find, based on your own experience at similar places or comments you've heard from others.
The new Rio de Grill Brazilian Steakhouse in Kanawha City is a perfect example.
I mean, it's a Brazilian steakhouse in Charleston, West Virginia. Inside the same building that previously housed (and still looks like, from the outside) a failed Australian-themed sports bar. That originally was a run-down, then long-shuttered, old Shoney's.
So yes, I had certain expectations when I first visited Rio de Grill - and they weren't very high. Yet with three visits behind me now, I'll be the first to admit I was wrong. It's not melt-off-your-face amazing, but the décor, food and service are far better than I expected.
The first thing to knock your socks off is the décor. Although the building looks pretty much the same from the outside, the ghosts of Shoney's and Boom's are long gone once you walk in the door.
The inside space has been remarkably transformed into a cool, dimly lit, somewhat urban-upscale oasis that looks nothing like its predecessors. A large buffet anchors the main room, with cozy dark booths and tables filling a second dining area. A small third room situated near a colorful bar is also suitable for hosting small groups.
I like the look, although I can see where a few folks are coming from when they've told me they think it's all a bit much - like they're trying a little too hard to look cool.
Regardless of how you stand there, most agree the food is pretty solid.
For those unfamiliar with the Brazilian steakhouse concept, here's how it works: After settling in to your table, you're invited to fill your plate at a large buffet featuring a fruit and salad bar, plus an array of 15-plus hot and cold sides.
There are vegetable and fruit salads, pastas and potatoes, soups and stews, a few fried goodies. You can also try Arroz Brasileiro (Brazilian rice) and Feijoada, a stew of beef, pork and beans that is Brazil's national dish.
Then after returning to your table to dig into your sides, the real fun begins.
That's when a Churrasco "grilled meats" menu offers guests up to 14 different types of beef, pork, lamb, chicken, sausages, seafood, breads and fruit - all grilled on giant skewers that are brought to the table and sliced directly onto each plate.
And, oh yeah, all that meat is all-you-can-eat. They will absolutely keep it coming every few minutes (a different meat every time) until you beg them to stop. And you will have to beg - they don't easily take "no" for an answer!
Since you'll have to make some tough choices, I'm here to steer you right.
If you try only one meat here, make it the Picanha! Can't stress that enough. This "sirloin cap" cut from the rump is tender, juicy and bursting with flavor, plus the seasoning rubbed on before grilling is divine. You'll like it so much you'll want more, so don't hesitate to pass on some inferior options and ask for more of it. They'll bring it.
Other beef cuts can't touch the Picanha, but the beef top-side, sirloin steak and garlic tenderloin skewers have all been strong.
The Italian and Bahama Mama smoked sausages are solid. Savory, salty, delicious.
The pork loin and pork ribs have been pretty good, and the lamb shoulder and lamb bone are delicious. If you like lamb in the first place.
And this may seem unlikely, but do sample the garlic bread. You may be tempted to bypass these carbs to save room for more meat, but that would be a mistake. These little grilled squares of goodness are dripping with so much butter more than a few may kill you dead. But one bite (OK, maybe two) is darn near life-changing.
I've been less enamored with chicken options. Both the chicken breast with bacon and chicken drumsticks have been inconsistent (sometimes good, sometimes dry) and the occasionally offered chicken heart just isn't my thing.
The grilled shrimp also varies from decent to dry, but I'd skip the fish altogether. It's also usually overcooked and pales in comparison to the plentiful other options you have.
So there you have it.
Most definitely try the Picanha and other beef options, don't miss the sausages, probably partake in the pork and lamb, use your own judgement on chicken and consider skipping the seafood.
Service has been very efficient and friendly, if sometimes a tad overzealous, but that sure beats the alternative. I would be remiss not to mention this, though. While carving meat at our table, one of the very nice (but clearly very nervous) chefs dropped his knife on the floor. Then picked it up and resumed carving. With the same knife.
Needless to say, we didn't eat that serving. But it makes you question what might be happening that you don't see. Let's hope that was just a case of opening-month jitters - and a manager reading this today will address with the staff right away.
I've heard a few people balk at the price. Dinner runs $27.99 weekdays and $29.99 weekends, plus there are vegetarian ($13.99), big kid ($11.99) and little kid ($5.99) options available. Lunches range from $4.99 to $13.99, which is the big steal here. Only nine instead of 14 meats are served at lunch, but everything else (including the buffet and never-ending skewers) remain the same.
At those prices, Rio de Grill may not be a place you frequent, but for the quality and quantity of what you receive I think it's pretty on point.
So far, many others agree. All 30 reviews shared on the restaurant's Facebook page so far boast five stars and I'm receiving similar kudos from readers.
"I went there for lunch recently with a friend and it was delightful," said Elaine Anderson. "I would not go very often, but it is something different. The grilled meats remind me of O'hana at the Polynesian Resort at Walt Disney World."
And I hope he's not gunning for my job, but local newsman Kennie Bass pretty much nailed my exact sentiments as well.
"I've hit Rio de Grill three times in the past few weeks and I've had three very nice experiences, as have my friends. I've waited a long time for a Brazilian steakhouse ... a good one ... to come to Charleston, and I think they do a very nice job."
He went on to say the restaurant is clean, well decorated and offers excellent service.
"While the secondary food choices (salads and a few hot items) are not spectacular, they are tasty. But it's the meat that is the true winner. They serve a decent variety and it's all very tasty and well prepared. They also offer a pineapple baked with a cinnamon and sugar topping that is light and delightful. The dessert bar is underwhelming, but honestly, you don't need a thing off of it with the pineapple readily available."
He added: "I think you have a tremendous platform to share the word about restaurants, so I'd be interested to see what you think of the steakhouse."
Thanks, Kennie, and now you know. Just like you, I think the new Rio de Grill is a fairly delightful, better-than-expected addition to the area's dining scene.
I'm just going to have to limit my visits so I don't let all that meat get the best of me.
Rio de Grill Brazilian Steakhouse, 3600 MacCorkle Ave. SE, is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday, 4-10:30 p.m. Saturday and noon to 9:30 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 304-926-5555 or look up "Rio de Grill" on Facebook.
Steven Keith writes a weekly food column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and an occasional food blog at blogs.wvgazettemail.com/foodguy/. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or by e-mail at wvfoodguy@aol.com. You can also follow him on Facebook as "WV Food Guy" and on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as "WVFoodGuy".