My latest local restaurant obsession (a word I don't use lightly, mind you) is the perfect example of how looks can be deceiving. Or how big things come in small packages. Or how you can't judge a book by its cover.
Whatever expression you choose, the result it represents is the same: The Olive Tree is amazing.
And not just like, oh, it's a nice enough place. It's the most exciting restaurant opening in town since last summer's arrival of The Block. I simply can't get enough of this fantastic new dining option.
You wouldn't know it just to look at it, though. Occupying a small storefront in a tiny business complex at the foot of the Central Avenue Bridge in South Charleston, just a block from South Charleston Middle School, The Olive Tree seems pretty unassuming at first glance. Like just another storefront deli.
But inside its doors, co-owners Michael Jarrouj and Richard Rizk have launched one of the area's best new casual restaurants, combining friendly service, a charming ambiance and an unmistakable, contagious passion for serving up top-quality Mediterranean, Greek, Middle Eastern, New York and Philadelphia deli-style soups, sandwiches, salads and sides. With craft beers and fine wines to boot.
Sound like an odd combination? Not at all. The marriage of tastes works - in a big way.
You feel the restaurant's heart as soon as you walk inside, where you'll often see Michael and Richard making the rounds, hugging customers and explaining how their meals were prepared. The food is delicious, fresh and painstakingly made - slow-roasted this and handmade that - which they love to explain in mouthwatering detail.
Although table service is occasionally available, you typically place your order at the counter, then take a seat at one of a dozen or so tables situated around the café/deli/market.
The décor is casual, yet tastefully done. Black and brown wood tables and chairs are surrounded by shelves, coolers and racks offering a nice selection of deli meats and cheeses, packaged ethnic foods, pre-made sandwiches and breads, craft beer and wine available for purchase or take-out.
Light sage walls, black trim, stone accents and more give the place a cool, contemporary feel. A couple of TVs and diverse piped-in music (everything from Stevie Wonder, Neil Diamond and Eric Clapton to the Eagles, Def Leppard and Aerosmith) bring the place to life.
And then there's the food. THE FOOD!
I'm making my way through the entire menu and have not found a weak spot yet.
The hummus is thick and garlicky, with plenty of lemon for tartness and a sprinkling of paprika offering smoky notes. The baba ghanoush may look like hummus, but tastes so different. This traditional roasted eggplant and tahini spread features wonderful toasted, roasted flavors and a nice kiss of cumin.
The stuffed grape leaf rolls and falafel are nice, the pierogies are the traditional Northeast variety (potato and cheese fried in crunchy pockets, not the soft dumpling-like variety you see in our area) and the Bulgarian feta is so deliciously creamy - and unlike any traditional feta you've probably had.
A variety of pasta, potato and side salads are offered, but I haven't been able to move beyond the tabbouleh, what with its incredibly light and fresh-tasting combination of chopped parsley blended with bulgur wheat, diced tomatoes, scallions and a lemon-olive oil dressing.
I also haven't been able to try any of the more traditional deli-style sandwiches (turkey club, Mediterranean chicken salad, roast beef, pastrami on rye and more) because I'm drawn to other signature selections.
The Olive Tree dog - a thick Nathan's wiener butterflied, char-grilled and topped with roasted onions and mustard - is tasty. The Legit Reuben - a towering mound of thin-sliced Boar's Head corned beef with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and dressing on pumpernickel rye - is one of the best in town. (Although there's almost too much meat-to-sauce ratio, which I guess is a good problem to have.)
The Il Duche - fire-roasted Italian sausage with onions, pepper, basil and super-spicy mustard - sells out most days. The Olive Tree Shawarma - marinated and slow-roasted shaved steak with garlic sauce, shredded pickles, onion, tomato and tahini in pita - is ridiculous. The Moroccan Beef Stew - an occasional special with tender beef, onions, broccoli, red pepper, herbs, green peppers and green beans in a "you'll-want-to-drink-it-by-the-gallon" broth - is stellar.
And then there's The Real Philly.
Despite the highest recommendations from friends and servers alike, I resisted ordering this on my first several visits. I mean, I've had good Philly Cheesesteaks. How much different or better could this one be?
Oh. My. Lord.
I later learned this is Mike's original recipe from back home in Philly, so it truly is the real deal. Amazingly tender and flavorful roasted ribeye is mixed with grilled onions, spices, provolone, cheese "whiz" (just like in Philly, but never seen around here) with pickles and a touch of marinara. This is all stuffed in a traditional Amoroso roll (flown in fresh from Philly) to create a sandwich that will leave you speechless long after the last bite.
Best Philly ever, hands down. And it's served with spice-dusted fries that should be regulated as a controlled substance they're so good.
I've since been told the Gourmet Grilled Cheese (featuring a blend of cheeses) and the Olive Tree Mediterranean Grilled Cheese (loaded with fresh spinach, vine-ripened tomatoes, basil, olives, purple onion, gouda and feta) are probably the best grilled cheeses you'll ever have, so my next visit's order is already decided.
I'm getting both!
The treasures don't stop after your entrée either. Two desserts are can't-miss hits.
The baklawa of flaky layered phyllo dough with a sweet crushed pistachio center is topped with rose-water infused sauce. And if that weren't good enough, the Baklawa Sundae takes that delicious treat and crushes it up into vanilla bean ice cream that's topped with gourmet chocolate sauce. As the menu says, "You can re-start your diet tomorrow." I don't know why someone hasn't thought of that before.
I'm so obsessed about The Olive Tree, that I've been feverishly asking everyone I see and checking online reviews to see if other people have had the same experience. I've heard and read 5-star reviews across the board.
I even took a group of 10 guys one night so I could gather even more opinions and, who am I kidding, steal lots of tastes from other plates. Their feedback was just as positive.
"First, was the surprise of finding that there is a delightful new restaurant that I probably have driven by several hundred times without even knowing it," said Paul Nada, who lives in South Charleston just a mile or so away from the restaurant.
"From the exterior, the new building does not look like it houses a restaurant of any kind, let alone one with as much to offer as The Olive Tree. However, behind the glass door ... is a new gem worthy of note. Our group ordered some of pretty much everything, and if there was any disappointment in what was served up, I certainly wasn't aware of it. Everything was expertly prepared and generous in its proportions. I heartily recommend giving this venue a try."
David Getman was impressed with how hard the staff worked to take care of us and said the Reuben was as good as any he could remember.
The Olive Tree is not fancy, but it's still wonderful. It's also not big, and great word-of-mouth is already packing the place during peak lunch times. Limited on-site parking is an issue, but new street parking options nearby have helped a little.
Still, God help them once word starts to spread even more. Lines and delays may get longer, but it's worth the wait. I hear the owners are already talking about expanding. I, for one, can't wait.
IF YOU GO: The Olive Tree, 333 2nd Ave. in South Charleston, is open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Saturday. For more information, call 681-265-9158 or look up "The Olive Tree Cafe & Catering" on Facebook.
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You thought you'd heard the last word on West Virginia hot dogs and the chili that tops them?
Think again. The memories keep rolling in.
Check back next week for even more reader comments on the hot dogs and drive-ins they remember from days gone by - and the recipes they'd love to get their hands on.
Steven Keith writes a weekly food column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and an occasional food blog at http://blogs.wvgazettemail.com/foodguy/. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or by e-mail at wvfood guy@aol.com. You can also follow him on Facebook as "WV Food Guy" and on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as "WVFoodGuy".