Hot dogs, chili, barbecue, spaghetti and craft beer. We have lots to talk about this week, folks, so buckle in!
Boy, did we touch a nerve when we started talking about hot dogs. One reader’s request for an old A&W hot dog chili recipe sparked an incredible amount of chatter that hasn’t died down weeks later.
In fact, it’s turned into quite the mystery — and I think you food sleuths are just getting started!
Bobby Mandt, who was mentioned as a possible relative of the West Side A&W’s owners, wrote in to clarify his “hot dog” connection. He said that the restaurant didn’t belong to his parents, Charlie and Virginia Mandt, as some thought, but was instead owned by the Litton family.
“I’m not sure what his first name was, but his nickname was Wink, and he later opened up as another popular restaurant in the Charleston area called Bowincal’s. He had two sons, David and Phil, and David had a popular sports bar in Cross Lanes called Fleas. I’m pretty sure he now lives in Myrtle Beach and has a restaurant there. I’m not sure where Phil is right now.”
He went on to say that the restaurant his parents did have on the West Side was called Fred’s Park, which was located where the fire station is now at the Virginia Street underpass.
“My father and his dad opened it in 1936 and were there until 1948. Then it relocated to Spring Hill and was named Mandt’s Drive-In until he retired and closed it March 27, 1976.” (Coincidentally, another reader also called in to tell me about Mandt’s in Spring Hill. “They had the best hot dogs around,” she told me.)
Bobby said if anyone is interested in the hot dog sauce his parents used at Fred’s Park, they can still get it at the Time Out Sports Bar & Grill in Cross Lanes.
“But don’t ask that restaurant for the recipe, because they don’t know what it is,” he added. “I make it and sell it to them.”
Argh.
Alas, there may be some hope, thanks to this Bowincal’s lead! TV news reporter Kennie Bass also chimed in with more insight — and a recipe — that ties into the story above.
“I used to work at Bowincal’s in the late ’70s and early ’80s,” he said. “The three guys who started the franchise — Buford (Bo) Jividen, Wink Litton and Calvin Stover — were all former A&W guys. I even think they had the drive-in on the West Side. Legend has it they were the first ones to put the root beer ‘slush’ as a topping on a root beer.”
So the A&W, Fred’s Park, Mandt’s Drive-In, Bowincal’s and current Time Out Sport Bar all have a connection. Fascinating!
He also shared the Bowincal’s hot dog chili recipe he remembers from memory, which he says is likely the same thing they served at A&W. I’ve included Kennie’s recipe this week, but it makes a big ol’ batch. You’ll probably want to scale back the quantities.
Reader Susan Stewart not only shared her own fond A&W memories, but also some insight related to Jeananne Leone’s original plea that may bring this story full circle.
“Loved your article about the woman from Dunbar looking for the A&W hot dog chili recipe,” she said. “Like a true West Virginian/Charlestonian, my first solid food was an A&W hot dog. (Not really sure I should be admitting that.) The A&W on Central Avenue was a favorite treat for our family.”
She said she loved the frosty mug root beer, the hot dogs and the whole drive-in atmosphere.
“I found this article (http://bit.ly/1UqX8cc) complete with newspaper clippings that offers a lead to the owners of the local A&W restaurants, and later the Bowincal’s restaurants: Calvin Stover and Winferd ‘Winc’ Litton. Beauford Jividen also became a partner, thus creating Bowincal’s.”
She said the article indicates that there was no set menu for the franchise in early years and local owners created their own menu of hot dogs and hot bologna.
“If Mrs. Leone doesn’t find that the recipes provided by your readers bring back her childhood memories, perhaps someone can track down the family of these local owners?” (Further research shows the Littons later moved to Myrtle Beach.) “Maybe they still have the chili recipe?” Susan said. “I do love a good mystery!”
Mystery, indeed!
A woman from Sutton also called wondering if she could help.
“Mr. Keith, there is a West Virginia chili that those people may have been talking about in Wednesday’s newspaper,” she said. “It’s an old-fashioned chili recipe where you cook all the ingredients together and you don’t pour off the grease until after it’s all cooked, then there’s just a little bit of grease that you take off.”
She reiterated that you don’t brown the hamburger or onions or anything, but just cook it all together.
“Does that sound familiar? They call it West Virginia-style chili. There’s nothing like it when we get it right,” she said. “Try it and see how it turns out.”
The Gazette-Mail’s Wine Boy didn’t have any insight on the A&W request, but did offer a few recommendations of his own.
“North-central West Virginia has the universe’s best hot dogs and chili! Try Ritzy Lunch in Clarksburg (if it’s still there) and Yann’s in Fairmont,” said columnist John Brown. “Yann’s dogs have a serious heat index, too.”
Finally, I even heard from the national A&W chain itself! But they were no help.
“Hi Food Guy! We stumbled across your plea for our chili dog recipe,” wrote Liz Bazner, the company’s digital manager. “While we can’t share our proprietary recipe, we’d be happy to provide you and Jeananne with some other A&W goodies. Feel free to reach out if you’re interested!”
Jeananne, what do you think?
nnn
Our recipe search also prompted a few other readers to take a trip down memory lane.
“With all this discussion of hot dogs, I started thinking about the ‘French Frank’ hot dog sold at Bob Phillip’s Restaurant back in the ’60s!” wrote Sherry Clark. She said it was served on a sesame seed bun that was crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. “The slaw was as sweet as the onions and the chili was good, but the bun was what made it so delicious!”
She said her dad used to work late at night and come home hungry.
“He would walk into our bedrooms and say, ‘Who wants to go get hot dogs?’ We would jump out of bed and run to the car (yes, in our pajamas), so excited!”
She added that her brother has said he would pay $1,000 for one of those hot dogs again.
“With the new bakery opening on the West Side, I thought if someone knew the recipe for that bun, what a great addition to a menu it would be. Surely someone else in Charleston remembers the ‘French Frank!’ As much as you love food, I am so sorry you missed the experience. I really enjoy your articles.”
I’m sorry I missed it too, Sherry — and thanks!
Reader Larry Blankenship said our search saga made him miss one of his old favorites: the spaghetti at Wiggin’s in Huntington. Unlike some of the hot dog joints above, Wiggin’s was around when I was a kid and I had that very dish. The sauce was delish.
“It was the absolute best spaghetti,” he said. “I’d love to have that recipe.”
Some quick research found that the same Wiggin’s spaghetti recipe was later used at Tascali’s Italian Restaurant on Route 60 in Barboursville but, alas, that place has since closed as well.
Anyone have any leads to help Larry out?
And reader Mike Riley is looking for a taste of nostalgia, too.
“Since you’ve put out a call for A&W’s sauce recipe, how about doing the same for the BBQ sauce they used to sell at Joey’s?”
Good idea! Some friends and I were reminiscing about the old Joey’s just the other day.
nnn
On the exploding craft beer front, South Hills Market & Café has teamed up with Big Timber Brewing Company out of Elkins to offer a Beer Tasting Dinner next Monday night.
The March 7 event will feature a five-course meal paired with five craft brews.
“We are excited to be hosting this, as we have worked with Big Timber since they opened in May of 2014,” said Anne Arbaugh, who owns the restaurant with husband/chef Richard Arbaugh.
On tap that night were:
n Benton’s country ham with petite biscuits, hot mustard and preserved Kanawha County relish, paired with Big Timber Blonde.
n “Beer and Eggs” with braised West Virginia bacon, frisee and trout roe with Big Timber Blonde vinaigrette, paired with Big Timber Pale Ale. n Spoonbread with fried Chesapeake Oyster, wild mushroom ragu and preserved ramp aioli, served with Big Timber Porter. n 48-hour braised short rib with spicy house BBQ shrimp, smoked cheddar grits and vegetables, accompanied by Big Timber IPA. n Triple-chocolate gateau with espresso buttercream, pomegranate gastrique and Big Timber Porter ice cream, paired with Big Timber Frost Notch Winter Ale.
Tickets are $75 per person, excluding tax and gratuity, and reservations are required. For more information or to make reservations, call 304-543-9208.
nnn
And speaking of craft beer, another reader called in with a tip on an unlikely place to find it.
“Since you’re writing about craft beer, I think you should let people know that Drug Emporium, a locally run store, has a section selling craft beer right there in the drug store. It’s a wonderful local retailer, so I think you should mention it.”
Done.
Another unlikely spot is the Fruth Pharmacy on Oakwood Road just up Corridor G. In addition to craft brews in the beer case, they also now fill growlers at a craft beer tap station in the front of the store.
Steven Keith writes a weekly food column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and an occasional food blog at http://blogs.wvgazettemail.com/foodguy/. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or by e-mail at wvfoodguy@aol.com. You can also follow him on Facebook as “WV Food Guy” and on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as “WVFoodGuy”.
5 lbs. ground beef, depending on preference
159 ozs. tomato puree
4 celery stalks, diced
2 green peppers, diced
1 mild red pepper, diced
2 medium-large white onions, diced
½ cup chili powder
¼ cup paprika
½ cup hot sauce, to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
Brown the meat and drain.
Add tomato puree, chili powder, paprika, hot sauce and diced vegetables.
Simmer over low heat for hours (4-6) before serving, stirring often so the bottom doesn’t burn.
*As recalled by Kennie Bass.
1 lb. hamburger
1 onion
1 can tomato paste
3 cans water
½ cup ketchup
1 ½ tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. vinegar
1 tsp. salt
Cook all ingredients together until meat is cooked through. (Do not brown hamburger or onions first.)
When finished, pour off any excess grease floating on top before serving.