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The Food Guy: Hopalong to next beer and chili fest

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By Steven Keith

Smokin' hot chili, brisket and ... beer?

This past weekend's inaugural "Hops & Heat" craft beer fest and chili cook-off at the East End Bazaar was a smokin' affair - and I'm not just talking about all the chili I sampled. There was jalapeno-smoked beer, too, which was a new one to me.

I suggest you pass on that brew, but the event itself was a success. A couple hundred folks crowded in under drizzly skies to enjoy 10 different chilis and more than 30 craft beers from breweries throughout West Virginia and the region.

The beverage highlights for me were Bridge Brew Works' "Draculin" Red Belgian IPA, Big Timber's "WV Wet Hop," Flying Dog's "Dogtoberfest" Marzen and "Double Dog" Pale Ale, and Mountain State Brewing's perennial favorite, "Almost Heaven" amber ale.

And the chili? Well, that was interesting.

I joined five other judges to sample and score all 10 entries to pick a winner - and we were impressed with the variety of different flavors featured among them. Although all were traditional red chilis, no two were exactly alike.

One hot pot was spiked with sliced jalapenos and another sweet version was reminiscent of Cincinnati-style chili. (Remember Skyline?) One featured Moroccan spices, another was made with lamb, one was more beef stew-like and a couple were heavy on tomatoes and Italian spices.

In the end, my favorite turned out to be the Charleston Convention & Visitors Bureau's phenomenal lamb chili, but it failed to take top honors. However, fellow judges and the public confirmed my second choice by picking Sam's Uptown Café as the day's winner. (And it was delicious, no doubt!) Second place honors went to Jay Williams while Mary Lou's BBQ snagged third.

Despite cloudy skies and a sprinkle here or there, good chili, great beer and nice live music made for a festive event on Charleston's East End. It was an incredibly strong first effort - and I'm sure it won't be their last.

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Speaking of other smokin' food, I finally (FINALLY!) made it down to Dem 2 Brothers & A Grill, Adrian "Bay" Wright's popular joint on Charleston's West Side that once boasted having the "Best Barbecue on the Planet."

Well, no.

But it's really, really good - definitely worthy of praise that has been heaped on by Yelp reviewers and The Food Network itself, which recently featured the restaurant on a "Southern Fried Road Trip" episode hosted by Jamie and Bobby Deen.

Since it took me so long to finally check the place out myself, anticipation was high when I walked through an unassuming door - and into a small dining area reminiscent of the mega-popular barbecue joints scattered throughout Nashville and Memphis.

Although you can sink your teeth into pulled pork, wings, hot dogs, hot bologna, Italian sausage, chicken, fish or Philly cheesesteak, I so wanted to get cozy with a slippery, slathery slab of ribs.

But alas, there were none left that day. Brisket was the featured special, and a man could do much worse, so I ordered a platter with "half sauce" (half hot, half mild) and made the agonizing Sophie's choice of which two sides to sample.

Cole slaw, baked beans, green beans, dirty rice, cabbage, potato salad, corn on the cob, sweet potato casserole - I'm was dying here.

Ultimately, though, there was no choice. Collard greens are a given for me and how could I not do the mac 'n' cheese? The greens were delicious, although fairly mildly flavored - light on the vinegar and pork seasoning. The macaroni was fine (I mean, hard to go wrong there), but I wished it had been a little more creamy and a whole lot warmer.

But the beef itself was nearly flawless. Despite a few tough charred edges, the bulk of each slice was tender, juicy and flavor-packed.

I'll definitely be going back soon and will so make sure they're serving ribs when I do. I'll also leave room for one of a handful of homemade desserts, since I'm still haunted that I passed on the homemade banana pudding that tempted me.

Dem 2 Brothers is located on "the best smelling corner in Charleston," which is a claim that definitely sticks. The restaurant is open for dine in or take out from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Monday through Saturday, plus delivers orders of $20 or more for a $5 delivery charge. (Catering is available, too.) For more information call 304-400-4977, 304-550-4431 or visit www.dem2brosgrill.com.

And if you'd like to try your hand at mastering Adrian's rib recipe at home, I've shared the version he gave The Food Network, which has since published it online. It's a bit time-consuming, for sure, but that complex cauldron of ingredients making up the sauce sounds absolutely wicked.

Steven Keith writes a weekly food column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or by e-mail at dailymailfoodguy@aol.com. You can also follow him on Facebook and Pinterest as "DailyMail FoodGuy," on Twitter as "DMFoodGuy" and read his blog at http://blogs.charlestondailymail/foodguy.

Ribs on the Grill

Total time: 27 hours, 45 minutes Preparation: 45 minutes Inactive: 24 hours Cooking: 3 hours

spice rub (recipe follows)

2 racks spare ribs (about 3 lbs. each)

2 cups yellow mustard

1 cup white vinegar

homemade BBQ sauce (recipe follows)

Spice Rub

¼ cup ground black pepper

¼ cup paprika

¼ cup garlic salt

¼ cup seasoned salt

¼ cup packed light brown sugar

Homemade BBQ Sauce

2 fresh habanero peppers

4 cups tomato sauce

½ cup brown sugar

¼ cup hot sauce

¼ cup lemon juice

¼ cup molasses

¼ cup dry mustard

¼ cup onion powder

¼ cup paprika

¼ cup ground black pepper

¼ cup granulated sugar

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

¼ cup Worcestershire sauce

Rub the Spice Rub on all sides of the rib racks and place on a sheet pan. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Preheat the grill to 275-300 degrees for about 30 minutes. Remove ribs from refrigerator and let come to room temperature. In a small bowl, add the mustard, vinegar and 1 cup water and mix until well combined.

Place ribs on the grill, bone-side down, and turn every 5 minutes, brushing with mustard mixture when you turn them. After 30 minutes, stop brushing with the mustard mixture, then continue to turn them every 5 minutes until they're done, about 2 hours 30 minutes. Serve with Homemade BBQ Sauce.

To make Spice Rub: In a medium bowl, combine the pepper, paprika, garlic salt, seasoned salt and sugar, and mix.

To make Homemade BBQ Sauce: In a blender, add the habanero peppers and ¼ cup of water. Blend until liquid. In a stockpot over medium heat, add tomato sauce, 1 cup water, brown sugar, hot sauce, lemon juice, molasses, dry mustard, onion powder, paprika, pepper, granulated sugar, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Add the pureed habaneros, as desired, for a spicier sauce. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook at a simmer until it thickens, 1 to 2 hours.

Recipe courtesy of Adrian "Bay" Wright of Dem 2 Brothers & A Grill.


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