I've got a hot one, y'all!
The side dishes are hit or miss, but let's be honest. That's not why you're going.
It's all about the meat at a barbecue joint, and here's the verdict on Lem's Meat Varnish: The chicken is good, the pulled pork is better and the baby back ribs are really nice. But the smoked brisket? Dear God, this brisket!
Tender, juicy and flavorful inside with a slightly charred crust outside, it's easily the best I've had since eating my way through Austin, Texas, years ago. Maybe even better.
It's been weeks since my Lem's brisket baptism - since that first revelatory, eyes-rolling-back-in-my-head bite - and I dream of it, still.
Just steps from the South Charleston Mound, Lem's is a tiny little place with no tables or seats. No bigger than a walk-in closet, it's a carry-out-only spot offering a menu limited to smoked and barbecued meats with a selection of traditional sides.
Barbecue fans may recognize the name. Chef/owner/creator Chris Lemon's "Lem's Meat Varnish" is a beloved line of award-winning sauces, including hot, mild and mustard-based Southern Gold. It's the popularity of those products that prompted Chris to open his own storefront lunch counter and catering shop last year, where you can also purchase his sauces and other products.
The aforementioned brisket, pulled pork, ribs and chicken can be ordered in combos paired with sides, on "sammiches" or in burritos and nachos. You should eventually try them all, but start with the brisket - and make your first bite nothing but meat, untouched by sauce, sides, bread or anything else. It stands out on its own.
What doesn't stand out are most of the sides. I did like the extra creamy (and strangely enough, slightly sweet) potato salad, but the rest have been pretty lackluster. The smoked mac 'n' cheese was a little dry, the green beans were begging for salt and the slaw is (I'm so sorry, I never say this) truly awful. Chalky, bland, pointless.
But hey, if a few secondary sides are the only drawbacks here, Lem's is doing pretty well. The meat is fantastic, portions are plentiful and these guys couldn't be any friendlier.
During one of my visits, Chris was visibly excited as he prepared my smoked brisket combo to-go - carefully slicing it, drizzling on the sauce, packaging it up.
"Man, you're in for a real treat with this," he told me. "We dry-rub and smoke it forever. There's a lot of time and love that go into that brisket."
It shows.
IF YOU GO: Lem's Meat Varnish, 616 D St. in South Charleston, is open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, with Saturday hours coming this summer. For information or to place individual or catering orders, call 681-265-9386 or 304-541-0050 or look up "Lem's Meat Varnish" on Facebook.
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The craft beer industry continues explode with new festivals popping up all over to celebrate our love of the hop.
The latest is the Lewisburg area's first West Virginia Craft Brew Festival from 2 to 10 p.m. Saturday, April 29, at the State Fair of West Virginia, just south of town in Fairlea.
Sponsored by the State Fair and Lewisburg Rotary to raise money for local scholarships, the daylong event will feature live music, a variety of food vendors and, of course, lots of great beer.
On tap to pour samples will be Berkeley Springs Brewing, Big Timber Brewing, Blackwater Brewing, Bridge Brew Works, Chestnut Brew Works, Dobra Zupas, Greenbrier Valley Brewing, Morgantown Brewing, Mountain State Brewing, Parkersburg Brewing, Sophisticated Hound Brewing, Weathered Ground Brewing and Wheeling Brewing.
As for food, guests can purchase good eats from Rolling Stove, Dem 2 Brothers & A Grill, La' Creperie, Hashbrowns & New Grounds, plus a few more restaurants to be announced.
General admission tickets are $30 and include eight 4-ounce tasting tickets and a commemorative mug. VIP tickets for $50 include a mug and 10 tasting tickets, plus special parking and one-hour early admission at 1 p.m. A special Designated Driver/Under 21 ticket for $15 includes admission and entertainment only.
Additional beer tickets may be purchased for $1 each, and all ticket prices will go up $5 if purchased at the gate on the day of the event. To purchase in advance, visit statefairofwv.com/event-center/wvcbf-tickets .
Steven Keith writes a weekly food column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and an occasional food blog at blogs.wvgazettemail.com/foodguy. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or by email at wvfoodguy@aol.com. You can also follow him on Facebook as "WV Food Guy" and on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as "WVFoodGuy."