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The Food Guy: Good eats at nearly 5,000 feet

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By Steven Keith

While ringing in the new year up at Snowshoe this past weekend, we took a break from winter play to check out a couple of cool food and drink hotspots on the mountain.

After hearing good reviews from friends, we made our first visit to Old Spruce Tavern, a cozy little bar serving a small array of housemade soups, salads and sandwiches, along with Snowshoe's largest and most diverse selection of craft beer.

In a storefront next to Foxfire Grille that has housed a number of businesses through the years (a sunglass store, gourmet hot dog bistro and a wine bar, just to name a few) Old Spruce is probably Snowshoe Village's current "it" place to be.

We felt lucky to score two seats at the bar because the place was packed, and a throng of hungry skiers arrived just minutes later.

We sipped a couple of craft brews while noshing on a really delicious platter of smoked trout dip served with toasted pita, carrots and celery, plus a nice cup of the daily special cheddar ale soup.

Tempted by the highly recommended jerk chicken and an Asian shrimp wrap, we instead opted for the equally praised Lost Cuban (pork loin, ham, Swiss cheese, sweet pickles and sweet-and-spicy mustard on a toasted roll) and the L-Dub (panini with a thick stack of sliced smoked turkey, sharp cheddar and cranberry-mustard sauce on marbled rye).

Both were nice, and the tavern's warm ambiance and friendly service are draws as well. We'd definitely go back again.

Across the village courtyard adjacent to Sunset Cantina, the same owners have opened the very new Old Spruce Draft House, pouring a handful of pints, flights, crowlers and growlers of beers exclusively crafted at nearby Big Timber Brewing in Elkins.

It's a no-nonsense place (beer and bagged potato chips, nothing else) but offers both a quick respite for thirsty skiers or a longer stay for others just wanting to sip and watch the hustle-and-bustle of the slopes right outside its large windows.

Which is exactly what I did.

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Although I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, more praise rolled in for Cielito Lindo Mexican Restaurant in St. Albans after I shared news of the new restaurant's opening a few weeks ago.

I'm especially hopeful this new place will rock since fellow Gazette-Mail food columnist Susan Maslowski has given it her endorsement as well.

"As always, I turn to your column every Wednesday morning," she said. "We had to go to St. Albans yesterday, so we stopped by Cielito Lindo for lunch. They had a booming business at 2 in the afternoon. I told them the restaurant had been mentioned in the newspaper, and they were delighted."

She said Miguel, the owner, kept shaking her hand and thanking her, even though she was just the messenger.

"Honestly," Susan continued, "the chili relleno is the BEST I've ever had in the area. Many use green peppers instead of poblanos, but this was a HUGE poblano - enough to save half for supper."

She said the waitress sensed her delight and even told her the whole technique of preparing the entire dish, minus the sauce.

"Anyway, I'm not a food critic. I just know what I like, but I give this place a thumbs up. The staff was attentive and you could sense their pride in the food they prepared. I'll be anxious to see what you think about the place. I do hope the restaurant flourishes."

So excited now, but I still may have to delay my review until later this month, when Cielito Lindo is expected to receive its liquor license. And, you know, margaritas.

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Reader David Gurley was the guy who tipped me off about Cielito Lindo, calling it the only "authentic" Sonoran-style Mexican restaurant he's seen in these here parts.

I suggested he also check out the West Side's Mi Cocina de Amor for similar fare, but he was already well aware.

"Thanks for the invite, but I may have beat you to his place by quite some time," David wrote. "Before he had envisioned his restaurant and before he moved here from Tucson, there was an article in the paper about Frank [Gonzalez] coming to town to visit his lady friend he met online. As soon as I saw Tucson mentioned, I read his story, then later the story of him packing his bags and moving here to marry his newfound love."

Months later, Frank opened his new restaurant on Bigley Avenue, so David went down to sample his food. He liked it, and received quite a surprise to boot.

"During our second visit I asked to meet Frank, and during our sit-down found that he and I went to the same high school in Tucson (though many years apart) and I had also eaten at his family's restaurant in Tucson as a teenager."

David went on to say he was visiting Tucson for a reunion a few years ago and even called Frank while he was there for recommendations on the best places to eat.

"He very quickly gave me directions and we had a really great meal."

Small world, eh?

"I just want to thank you for the article you wrote on the really good new Mexican restaurant in St. Albans," David said. "And I warned Miguel that if news of him appeared in your very well-read and 'take it to the bank' approval of places, he will have to prepare food for much bigger crowds!"

Blushing, David, but grateful for your kind words.

Steven Keith writes a weekly food column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and an occasional food blog at blogs.wvgazettemail.com/foodguy. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or by email at wvfoodguy@aol.com. You can also follow him on Facebook as "WV Food Guy" and on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as "WVFoodGuy."


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